Tuesday, January 18, 2011

New Years 2008 - The Flipside of the Philandering Coin


After such an arduously long, and admittedly heavier Part 1 of Tanzania, I've decided to reward you all with a quick tale. This is my story of New Years Eve, 2008.

I had met Sophie in Lviv during a typically wild, well-imbibed weekend. She was visiting along with her boyfriend, a short, likable chain smoker from Vienna, as she was. Rolph didn't speak much English, while Sophie's English was near-perfect. It was adorably tinted with the accent and occasional subject-verb disagreements that are common to western Europeans who are erstwhile trying to expand their vocabulary through the repeated use of words they have read in their extensive English book collection. "Rolph does have a very profound passion to smoke the cigarettes." Who can't love that?

Sophie's humor was uncanny. I am not particularly sure if she intended as many jokes as I and everyone else found, but should that even matter? Funny is funny. People like funny. After several days of the three of us and ol' Ed Burns hanging out, I began to develop a real attraction to Sophie. Ed creepily confirmed her status as attractive in such a way that only Ed Burns can: "She's plenty a good place to pahhk yaw sausage wagon, Brian." Ed often punctuated his sentences with a person's name for emphasis. He also told her he'd lick her feet. I'm not sure what kind of punctuation that needs.

One evening after many shots of vodka and Rolph in bed nursing an oncoming illness, Sophie tells me about her rocky relationship with Rolph. About how he's quite jealous and how she feels "unable to sustain the facade of this caring nature" any longer. She said more stuff too, but once I processed those words, my brain switched from interested conversationalist to conniving homewrecker, and I stopped listening entirely.

There was much dancing and flirting. Sophie was an extraordinarily poor dancer -- picture a drunk autistic child with anger management issues controlling a marionette -- she is that marionette. Amid the flailing and gyrating that could only be meant to interpret the soundtrack of a violent rape was the spliced-in time-warp scenes of me circling the club in search of other (more immediately unattached) women of casual morality. I found none, but at some point Sophie went back to her hostel bedroom and I was left with Ed Burns as we took yet another taxi through the McDonald's drive thru lane, only to chastise one another the following day. This was a common pattern, insofar as Ed and I shared a love for late night food and the inevitable remorse that comes with it.

At some point over the next several days, Sophie leaves, while leaving me with her email address. What this served to accomplish is to kick off perhaps the longest email flirtation in the history of email flirtations. Most people (sensibly) don't even bother engaging in such things. I, on the other hand, view written dialogue, be it text, email or Facebook as an integral part of the wooing process. It's nearly foreplay, really. The difference being that the duration as measured in quantity of words is inversely proportional to the number of minutes needed to complete the coitus thereafter. Which is nice. Especially since it don't cost nothin'.

Not surprisingly, this method works in reverse as well. It serves as an incubator for the inexorable sexual tension of a third date. At least for me. Then again all my third dates have inexorable sexual tension as my strength to keep from staring at boobs finally wanes. That's a lot of time spent pretending to be interested in things other than boobs.

Sophie and I trade 35 emails over the course of the next 4-5 months. They are of varying lengths, though tending more toward the full page length, each requiring an immense amount of effort and thought. Several are quite a bit longer. Her written English, for a girl of 20 for whom this is a second language, is far better than just about anyone I know, and that includes myself. Many times I found myself looking up words like "metagenesis" (My family has a metagenetic history; I do not believe my mother to have ever had sex) and "contrapuntal" (Rolph and I were merely contrapuntal). I mean, what the fuck? Shouldn't her default be words like "stuff" and "shit?" That stuff is the easiest shit to say.

I agree to fly Sophie from Vienna to Tel Aviv so we can hang out in Israel for about 8 days around the New Year. Aggressive? Yes. Then again, my worst New Years Eve ever would prove to be the following year in which the tale of failure included a date with a girl I'd met once before, some recreational drug use and its inevitably painful aftermath, so one might say the payoff for my impulsiveness is your reward.

Sophie arrives and I am actually somewhat uncertain as to where we stand. Are we pen pals? Just pals? Scissor pals? I prefer the latter. The first night we head out in Old Jerusalem and it appears clear my hopes are well received. Although she kisses somewhat like a crazy person, it isn't all bad and is quite enjoyable. In other words, the enthusiasm is appreciated. And let's face it, there's a lot to be enthusiastic about when a worldly stud of my esteem flies you to the most religious clutch of the world for a week of sinful influence. I'm saying you should put out, that's all I'm saying.

The sex is of a frantic nature, much like that of a crazy person. And sad as it is to say, I have some experience in this arena. Alarms are starting to sound that perhaps a theme is taking shape, although the lure of her high-minded philosophical discourse sprinkled in between all the crazy is too much to ignore. I have been weak when faced with the sweet seduction of words ever since a drunken high school party where Shana Bazelmens somehow managed to convince me that love was a worthwhile pursuit at the age of 16, 18 years later, I would know only too well how tangibly possible such ideologies could be. At 16 however, they seemed absurd. Still, Shana Bazelmens remained my dream girl for a short while afterward, and the electricity conducted by her philosophies remained with me each time I would connect with a woman on that level for several years. In cases such as with Sophie, this can affect my judgment considerably.

The following day, we walk through the various quarters of the Old City exploring, among other places, the Armenian History Museum. While upstairs in yet another room full of 18th century things from places in, near, or sounding like Armenia, we slipped behind a hanging carpet where Sophie offered her thanks for the flight ticket from Vienna. Let's just say that it's a good thing we were in the Armenian History Museum. Judging by the low patronage, it seems clear that no one cares much about them.

I was really starting to like Sophie. Public displays of lewdness aside, our connection was real for both of us. She spent much time explaining her thoughts on life, and on herself. Her introspective depth was mature beyond that of anyone I had ever met. She analyzed me and my idiosyncrasies (calling them "idiosyncratic moments") accurately and without judgement. She was utterly perplexed by my desire to see the world -- not that she didn't identify with it, but more by what drove me to be this way when I'd never been on a plane until the age of 23. This degree of intellectuality was beginning to appeal to me more and more. I was actually having thoughts of what the possibilities could be for us to be together in New York. Would she move there? She said she wanted to live there. But, who doesn't? Point is, I was thinking about it. As I zipped up.

New Years Eve comes around. My plan is to hit a proper club in Tel Aviv, but I hear of an underground DJ rave outside of Jerusalem and change course. If there is one thing a traveler will drop everything for, it is anything involving the word "underground." Underground poetry reading? YES. Underground pottery class? Definitely. Underground Thai boxing to the death? Fuck. Yes. DJ rave was happening.

We get rather drunk on vodka (after all, it is over vodka that we met in the first place) in our room amid some more awkward sex (though less awkward than before) and we may have even smoked some hash I had leftover from Turkey. I was probably so high I didn't even notice. Upon our arrival at the converted warehouse where this debacle was about to take place, we notice most of the people streaming inside are of the "dirtier, hippier" persuasion. Personally, I have no problem with this. Sophie does not like hippies. Must be the German in her.

We quickly down two double-vodka / random-mixers and after more discussion of yet more articles of our philosophy, I convince her that we should head away from the bar and into where the real party was happening. I really wanted to dance, jump, lose control, and generally do the things you do at raves. Those things do not usually include solving the issue of why you can't seem to initiate a real relationship with your parents. Time and place, Sophie; time and place. It is party time. And I *really* love to party.

Once we are inside the heaving, undulating throng of exploding appendages, I immediately get the sense that Sophie is extremely uncomfortable. The dancing, I am sure, is part of this. Really, I had never before or since seen a more horrendous dancer. She kept trying to dance on me. Grinding, maybe? I wasn't really sure what it was, but I kept my eye out for any necessary medical equipment nearby should she take it the next 1% and slip into a full-on epileptic fit. With that search concluded with the realization that a bungee cord and a lighter would likely suffice, I really just wanted a bit of time to dance and enjoy my drunkenness and have a good time. Truth is, all of her gyrating was quite cute, really. What wasn't cute however, was what I saw next.

After some time (five, *maybe* seven minutes??) I had lost sight of Sophie. After a bit of casual searching without foregoing my good time, I find her thrashing about on some other guy's groin. I'm actually relieved. Someone else is providing her the attention that to this point in the past seven minutes I had been unwilling to provide. I resume dancing and am actually having a slightly better time knowing that I have some actual time to enjoy what I came to enjoy. After some time, I look back over my shoulder and shake my head twice to clear whatever cobwebs may have created the image in front of me. It is confirmed. She is swallowing some *other* guy's face. I take a moment and consider how she and I must have looked when she had done the same thing to me in prior days, and it is frankly rather appalling.

Almost immediately I regret the entirety of my decision to bring her to Israel for New Years. This is a superiorly gifted intellectual, with the comfortability in her skin of a self-loathing transsexual. This somewhat explained the overexuberance to have sex or make-out with just about anyone. It also explained why eight days is way too many to spend with someone whom you really only know through written words on the internet. When they're not near their computer, they may be neck deep in crazy. That seemed like as good a New Years resolution as any, and so I vowed never to do this again. Until the following year. (Again, a story I will tell soon).

I wait and try to enjoy myself while I stave off the need to urinate. When that urge became unbearable, I tap her on the shoulder and calmly ask her if she'd like another drink, at which point she unhinges herself from the very breed of hippie she hates and follows me towards the bathroom. I don't much feel like talking to her, and I'm quite sure she senses this. I am realizing slowly that I am actually *responsible* for this girl, and her parents would rightfully castrate me had I decided to leave her behind. Which, if not for her age, I would equally be rightful in doing. Quite a pickle.

We go our separate ways at the bathroom, where there are far more men than women in line waiting on either side of a shared sink console. While in line I send out the obligatory "happy new year" text to my friends back in New York punctuated with "you have got to be having more fun than I am," essentially admitting defeat. Once I am done on the men's side of the bathroom, I emerge to find Sophie mauling some *other* sloppy hippie ON THE SINK. What the fuck, really?? I can't leave this girl alone for even FIVE FUCKING MINUTES without her needing to scissor some guy on top of the only dirty sink in a dirty converted warehouse full of the very dirty hippies that she professes to hate? Really? This is my nightmare.

I take her by the hand and lead her out of the rave. This is enough. If it were possible (and economically feasible) I would have put her on the first plane to Vienna that departed Tel Aviv in 2008. Having already sunk enough money into this adventure though, I opted to bring her back to our crappy hotel and tell her in the taxi ride how much this night SUCKED MY ASS.

It didn't matter. She was blathering on about something about being sorry or maybe it was that I should be sorry? She explained "I am sorry. I am not an elegant person." Which was kind of adorable. And then she fell somehow and split her lip open. I think she fell off the bed, but I was so drunk who could tell? Who cares. I wanted this night to end.

The next day, we are sharing a miserable meal as I am trying to explore the psychology of what would ever make her act that way. I am understanding that she is indeed only 20 years old, and lord knows I was probably making out with another guy's girl countless times when I was that age. Ok, maybe I can count them, but maybe it happened more than twice, so I can at least break even? I hope so. She asks me if I still like her, to which I respond, "I like you... I just like you a lot less than I did before yesterday." I could see that statement land with impact. She was hurt now. And we still had three days more to go. She'll need to conjure up all that isn't elegant in her to make them bearable.

We suffer through the next few days and she finally leaves. We may have had sex again, but if we did it certainly wasn't terribly memorable insofar as it was clearly a "throw each other a bone" type deal. Literally, an exchange for the pain and awkwardness we were each forced to endure over that period.

We've stayed in touch, although clearly we both used it as a learning experience that we'd rather not relive. At least I did. I'm not sure I can say the same for her. She sounds just as crazy as she ever was each time I hear from her. And honestly, I kind of like that she stayed true to her crazy roots. See? She really does know who she is. And I like that.

Truth is, I do think about her from time to time and hope she's doing well. Just not better than me.

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Tanzania - A Lesson in Growth Capital


Heads up to those dwindling few of you who still read this that I finally posted a selection of my pictures to Facebook several weeks ago. Everything is still on Flickr but who cares? Let's get on with the story.

Leaving the smoldering asspit of Dubai behind came about as naturally to me as does a double-down on 11 or a 3rd glass of wine. While I had a good time in Dubai, I was craving something a bit more adventurous, and a lot more natural. Tanzania would prove to be plenty of each.

From Dubai I had booked a place to stay about 20 km outside Dar es Salaam, as well as a transfer from the airport to my lodging. In spite of this, my first several hours in Tanzania were spent in the airport haggling over Serengeti tour prices from inside a nondescript side room off the baggage claim area. I have a general rule that I don't buy anything from the first vendor I meet in any one place, as inevitably, a cheaper price can be found with even a minimal amount of lackadaisical effort. And I am quite proficient at putting forth a minimal amount of lackadaisical effort. For nearly two hours, I was sequestered against my will, while fending off Serengeti tour pitches. It was a good-natured exchange. Although over this amount of time, even a practiced diplomat such as myself grows understandably weary. Promises of my car arriving "any minute" were rebutted with genuinely polite skepticism and the following internal dialogue:

Polite Self: Fuck it. You're in Africa. You're going to see the Serengeti either way. Just sign up and get it over with.
Annoyed Self: Fuck THAT. I am not going to reward this imprison-and-pitch strategy.
Polite Self: Fuck this. The car isn't coming until I/we/you lay out some cash. We're all tired. What's an extra 100 euros after you see a lion decapitate a zebra? Or better yet, a child?
Annoyed Self: Fuck you, dude! I am not some bullshit rookie traveler. I'm standing strong!
Polite Self: What the fuck? Who cares what this guy thinks?
Annoyed Self: Fucking... It doesn't matter. I refuse to get ripped off!
Polite Self: Fuck it all. It's getting late. I need a beer.
Annoyed Self: Mmmmm... beer....

Evidently, my internal voice has a rather limited vocabulary. No matter who is talking.

I unhappily concede defeat, thus lending insight into which "Self" above I really am. Total price for 5 days of animals and escape from the tour-pitch prison: 700 euros. Down from 1,500. I know I'm still getting ripped, but I take solace in the fact that I am finally out of that dingy room and will be en route to the glory that is Arusha by 4am the following morning. You read that correctly. In Africa, busses commonly depart at crazy early hours of the morning, because by 9-10am, it is sufferingly hot and no one wants to do shit. In fact, all of Africa grinds to a halt in the midday sun. Animals and people alike collect under any sun cover they can find, and stasis becomes the overwhelming pursuit of all living things. Kind of like my average Sunday afternoon, without the humiliation.

My first morning in Africa began with a 3:30am transfer to the bus station. With such a brutal wake time, it was not until I reached the bus station that I realized I hadn't yet produced my pre-trip bowel movement.

Allow me to pause here and explain something about "life on the road." Especially life on the road in the developing world, where traveling 100 miles can often (and typically does) take up to half a day. In such times, one's bowels are a never-ending concern. I fully realize this is a seemingly sophomoric topic. Just shut up and listen: This has nothing to do with my unfortunate Croatian episode. Let's put it like this: You know when all the demonic pressures of hell are mounting in such a way so as to bring forth Armageddon through a wave of convulsions the likes of which only Harry Dunne from Dumb and Dumber can truly appreciate? Hardly able to contain yourself until the time you reach the stall door or your front door, and suddenly all hell breaks loose? It's like that, only this is not the covert exit to the handicapped stall down the hall in your office that you're used to. There are countless hundreds of miles to travel on a bumpy, unpaved roadway aboard a stench-filled sweatbox. With every needling jostle comes the painful reminder that you should have handled your business before you left the bus station. And by business I mean poop.

I am now at said bus station, about to embark on an inevitably arduous traversing of northern Tanzania. A good log is necessary. Though in such circumstances, any log is a good log. I wait in a queue for the stall, abundantly aware that this endeavor constitutes my first real task in Africa. Once inside, I am greeted with a squatter. This I expected. What was not expected was a handleless bucket in the corner and no toilet paper. Immediately, my capability to handle Africa was under serious reconsideration. Did I really miss Dubai already, after only 10ish hours in sub-Saharan Africa? Is that how weak I am? Apparently so. My log retreated back upstream with the same force I'd have felt had it gone the other way. But it was a welcome relief, and the hope that I may make it to Arusha (11-14 hours) without stopping to extricate these demons suddenly seemed feasible. For a moment, I contemplated whether or not my mind's control over my bowels was somehow an incarnation of god's divinity. To this day, I believe it was.

I awoke 5-6 hours into my journey to find the bus overpacked with traversing Tanzanians, many of whom were forced to stand uncomfortably in the aisle. Overpacked that is, except for the seat next to me, which was conspicuously vacant. Ordinarily, this form of reverse-racism would be off-putting. In this instance however, it was immensely pleasing. I was the only comfortable person on a bus of 70+ passengers. Is this what a black person feels like on the bus from Fargo to Bismarck? If so, I'm buying. Racism rules.

Several hours later, a Massai gentleman named Nick (short for something) from the back of the bus came forward to join me. He offered insight into "the way of his people" and how their blatant avoidance of me was not discriminatory, but rather a manifestation of the embarrassment they feel when speaking subpar English. Bummer. Guess I'm back to short-selling racism.

Back in the States, I may say "Who cares? How often do you speak to someone you sit next to on a bus anyway?" However, in the underdeveloped world, this is not at all so. It is customary in the Middle East and (to a lesser extent) Africa to offer your food to the person next to you, should you be eating something, and this typically leads to pleasant discourse. Unless they're pushing broccoli. In which case, they can fuck off. That shit is nasty.

After a short conversation, Nick (who was wearing street clothes as opposed to his brightly colored traditional Maasai clothing) offers me the following: open-ended housing in his home (a rondaval) with his family, taking part in their customs, and they would be happy to feed me for as long as I stayed. An offer of this type, I've found only happens in the poorest of areas. It was not uncommon in the Middle East and Africa that I'd meet someone in town, chat with them for a spell, and then be offered room and board in their home. It struck me as odd (and romantically civilized) that the people with the least in this world, were the mostly likely to give the most. An offering of a place to stay in a dung-floored hut is actually a greater gift as a percentage of familial worth. The rondaval is all they have. Jane in accounts receivable on the other hand, can get a new microfiber sleeper sofa anytime, and yet would never be caught dead with a guest on her couch that wasn't a "top friend" on Facebook. And I think too that we can all agree that Jane in accounts receivable could use a little bit of coitus once in awhile so she can loosen up around month end.

Point is, we in the west have the audacity to view the people of these areas as being somehow less civilized, when in fact, they've managed to hold on to a most endearing humanity that many in the west seem to have lost. Then again, I've never been to DRC, where rape is about as common as a drunken brawl after a Yankees game. Hell, it's about as common as a Yankees game period, and those insufferably seem to happen all the time. Both though, are measurable deviations to the mean when charting the evolution of the human species. Then again, you wouldn't take Hunts Point as a representative reflection on New York City, so perhaps DRC was a poor example. Whatever. Just don't rape people unless they're staying on your couch, that's all I'm saying.

Unfortunately, I already had that Serengeti tour booked, leaving the following day. So my Massai friend and I would try to reconnect when I returned to Arusha. Arusha, incidentally, is commonly considered the midpoint between Cairo and Cape Town, which happen to be the two endpoints of the old British Empire. It's a smallish city of under 300,000, located near the base of Mt. Kilamanjaro whose main industries are textiles, mining, and tourism. It has an industrial feel, with an overactive, adolescent vibe of a city that can't wait to be a grownup.

Before departing for Lake Manyara the next morning, I opt for a haircut. One thing I had decided way back in Croatia was that while yes, cutting my own hair was certainly cheaper; the chats with the townsmen in a barber shop was typically an experience I'd happily pay far more for. This particular barber shop in Arusha was nothing more than a thinly walled stall in a marketplace off the center, with two decrepit looking barber chairs, and a sandy weight in the air that characterizes many an inland African city. I'm ushered into a chair, and I offer nary a glance at what I'm sure is the rusty clipper blade about to narrowly miss giving me tetanus.

Until this point, my declaration of being from New York was always met with wonderment and a street-cred badge that I'm sure only new maximum-security prisoners with teardrop tattoos enjoy. I was always granted club membership. But as with any other club that professes any level of exclusivity, nonmembers attach (completely justified) labels of affluence and desirability to those already admitted. Put differently, if I had the money for a flight to Tanzania, I already had far more than the guy who was about to overcharge me for my haircut. And with such social and socioeconomic inequality comes the delicate dance the altruistic traveler must dance when faced with the assistance-seeking market merchant.

With me strapped into a barber chair, this guy now had a captive (imprisoned?) audience for the duration of his pitch. Arusha, being a popular jumping off spot for the Serengeti, Maasai Mara, and Kimanjaro, has a vibrant tourist trade. Therefore, the best paying jobs in town involve English-speaking tours into these areas. However, in order to get these jobs, one needs a minimum of two years of education in order to learn the local flora and fauna well enough to answer the many (and often inane) questions of the largely Western travelers that patronize these tours. After some enjoyable conversation that meandered from reggae music, to George Bush (a popular topic in Arusha for reasons relating to his arrival to sign a $700 million grant later that week), to reggae music, to ganja, to white women, to reggae music, to the Champions League to reggae music, my dreadlocked haircut vendor asked me if I would read a note he was going to give me. I comply happily, thinking it is most likely a love note from a Dutch or German woman to whom he'd given a very different kind of tour. Instead, he begins writing the note himself, with careful diligence. Now I'm not quite sure what kind of love note to expect, but I worry now it will be a note asking me for something I wish not to give, be that money or anal.

"Mr Iddy
My call no 075297****
The aim of this letter is wanting to know how are you doing I hope that you are well and also I am well thank God. Please my friend
I need your company
I want to learning Collage of tourism guide but for now I haven't pay money of tourism
Every After 1 months 50,000/= of Tanzania help me my friend
I wan't to learning 4 1 year
Go May God bless you for Every thing."

Now, I can appreciate a market vendor who is slick enough to make me think I'm really getting a "special price" for that $10 screen printed rag I've seen in literally every marketplace throughout southern Africa for $3. However, I can *really* appreciate the slickster who has the stones to ask for a years worth of education in a single shameless mouthful. I was even offered my haircut gratis. Which is kind of like donating $1,000 to a charity and getting back a thank you letter along with that useless stack of printed address labels.

And to be honest, I've spent $410 in far worse ways. More than a few overserved club nights in New York come to mind. And furthermore, the idea of completely changing the course of one man's, one family's life with just the swipe of a debit card was more than a little appealing. It felt like a Sandra Bullock movie that didn't suck. Except that this was real, and all of her good movies are still being made in a dimension in which none of us will ever live.

Rather than fork over the cash to this guy, ultimately never knowing where it will go, and also recognizing that a country that at the time boasted (?) an 11% unemployment rate (or about 10% worse than New York State today), I didn't see the need to help a guy who was already running his own business when there were clearly others who could use the help a bit more. It did give me an idea for a not-for-profit, however. But I'll speak on that later.

I spent that night eating dinner with the guy who met me at the Arusha bus station (all transfers were a negotiated inclusion in the 5 day tour purchase) and his absurdly fat, absurdly drunk, yet absurdly sweet Dutch girlfriend. Philip, Annika, and I complete dinner, and Annika insists on paying. I'm not sure if she's looking for a zebra-coat gangbang, but i'm willing to let her pay for dinner if I can buy drinks afterwards. After all, the Euro at the time was 50% stronger than the USD, and she certainly looked as though she was about to eat 50% more than this US citizen. Furthermore, it is a foregone conclusion that I'd be drinking far more than twice as much booze as she would all night anyway, so an exchange of this kind seemed the most logical. As a reward for bequeathing these good people with my presence and the good times that inevitably come with it, I get a ride around town to the nightspots of their choosing. Not a bad deal. For them.

After a stop at a billiard hall where we play for shots (and I lose often), we go to a large sports bar located on the outskirts of town. It is a bi-level bar with a capacity of around 800, not unlike most sports bars we in the West are familiar with; save for the smattering of prostitutes who would blend into the crowd if not for the 1,000 cock stare that is the unmistakable trademark of a prostitute no matter what country she blows guys in. What is truly unique however, is the scene. It is the Champions League semifinals match between Liverpool and Chelsea. In other words, we're watching white people. I am one of about five white people in a packed, frenzied crowd of near 1,000 black people. It is like the negative from a photograph taken at every other sports bar I'd ever been in. And at this moment, the perma-smile overtaking my face says only one thing: I am in Africa. And this is why I travel.

I will preface all my references to "Africa" as being those of someone who was keenly aware of the lure of Africa as a spiritual frontier for the lonely traveler seeking adventure. Having been through much of southern Africa, I can now say that each country in Africa is starkly different from the next, though at this stage in my African journey, simply "Africa" was a place I wished to feel. Looking back now, I can say that the Western labeling of Africa as one place is precisely why I believe it is allowed to be exploited and why people with shit-for-brains like Sarah Palin thinks it is just one country. Then again, if you haven't picked up a periodical since Alaska was a Russian territory (1867, or when Africa was being colonized), then I suppose I can understand. What I can't understand is how that chick has a book deal, and I'm still hoping to get one. But I digress.

Early the following morning, I join the small group with whom I'll be seeing the Serengeti, Ngorogoro Crater, Lake Manyara, and lord knows what else. I say that because for some reason after the night before, irrespective of the fact that nothing boastful occurred, I truly felt as though nothing but unexpectations awaited me on the dark continent. This is akin to the moment when most people who say their dream trip is a "an African safari" realize their fantasy. For one thing, it's illegal to enter any protected area in Tanzania without a guide. So at the moment I met our guide Tom, who was proudly wearing his "Endangered Feces t-shirt, in front of a fully-packed 4WD, I wore a glow that was evident even through the iron veil that was the intense hangover Philip and Annika left me with about four hours earlier.

Along with me would be an Aussie girl named Maggie and a British girl named Ronda, an asian girl from San Francisco, and an older Dutch woman. But before I get to know these people, I'm going to need some sleep. For one thing, it's not a short drive out to our first stop, Lake Manyara. And besides, the loathsome traveler's pleasantries I'd grown to avoid were not at all as important as making sure I wasn't passed out when a leopard was dragging its catch into the treetops. As a devout animal lover, a frequently stoned Discovery channel watcher, and a harbinger of all things wildlife, I wanted to be as close to peak condition as 10+ shots of konyagi and another 7-8 Kilimanjaro beers the night before would allow. And let me just say that "peak condition" is a term used in relativity to the bristling sobriety of my safari compatriots.

I awake at the park entrance. It's time to see some shit! Already I see a few baboons poking around outside the main gate. I can hardly control myself, and my enthusiasm is equalled by everyone else in my group. We have not even entered the park, and already our cameras are clicking like a stuttering Zulu. Pausing at the entrance for long enough to visibly exasperate Tom, we finally enter the park. It is immediately apparent that this is not a park that harkens images of Africa at all. There is lush soil, trees thickly packed together, and the symphony of running water underscoring the rhythmic chatter of the forest. Upon seeing the first of each animal species, we pause for a photo orgy that even a picture whore like Kate Gosselin would be shamed by. In front of a group of five impala, Tom's expression says everything.



Digital cameras, and their costless incremental use of file storage, as opposed to their now-ancient predecessor, the film camera, have created a monster that can only be fed by the utter lack of attention span of the 21st century tourist. It used to be that one would travel with four rolls of film, containing 96 total exposures, and that amount of pictures would have to last until the next time you got to a store selling 35mm film. And in Tanzania, that can be quite some time. Instead, with the transportability of the digital age, and the immediate need for gratification that comes with it, people inevitably spend half of their time experiencing the very wonders they've traveled around the world to enjoy through a 2.5cm LED screen. Which frankly, is worse than watching it on television. For the first day or two in Africa, I was no different. After probably 15 minutes in front of these five impala, Tom calmly says "These are everywhere. Let's see a lion!"

Sure enough, 2 km down the road, a herd of over a thousand impala are nibbling at the short grass in a plain that stretches towards the horizon, where a flock of tens of thousands of flamingo pinken the wavy haze that blurs the line between the horizon and the enormous blanketing sky. At three degrees south of the equator, the sky is as big as it is going to get without the help of a serious hallucinogen. At this moment, I have never felt so insignificant and blessed at the same time. There is a colliding reality that comes with knowing that your place in this world is both one of banality and influence. On that truck, even with those people, I was so alone, and yet so blissfully pleased with what I'd accomplished already, that I wished I could be that alone forever. The accomplishment I speak of is nothing as tangible as having put more pins in my map than most others dream of; and it was not just an understanding of what it is like to partake in the human experience. Rather, it was *feeling* what it was like to partake in the human experience, and taking note of it as it is happening. So often, I feel these moments happen for people in retrospect. They look back on their wedding day, when the person they love affirms that their love is none unrequited; or they remember the birth of their child, or they watch the video of when they win the Tony Award they've worked their entire lives to achieve. For me, I felt blessed (quite a weighty word for someone who professes Atheism) to have felt the moment, absorbed it, and smiled at it; awaiting more.

In my younger years, I had a dislike of Asian people that to this day makes me physically ill to acknowledge. I didn't hate them, but at a glance, I had decided I didn't want to be around them. I still cannot fathom why. Which frankly, is probably the worst part. It's not as if an Asian person robbed me at knifepoint, or I was ever gang-raped in a Thai restaurant and at a young age had declared they were all somehow barbaric or threatening. No. I was just a close-minded suburbanite who thought I had some bazaar supremecy. Maybe it was the German in me? Now, several stages of personal development later, I was seeking to experience people of differing ilks, to broaden my own universe beyond that of the silly child in Kinnelon, NJ. Hell, I hadn't even been on a plane by the time I was 23 (save for a flight to the Grand Canyon at 11 months).

For some reason, Africa defined this ultimate transition. I'd been to southeast Asia, sure. But that trip was taken with friends over the course of just a few weeks, and was footnoted with credit card swipes at the finest restaurants and hotels at each stop. Fun; definitely fun. But hardly the growth I was seeking, and more importantly, in need of. This moment, looking over the steppe in the direction of Kenya, was the moment I knew I needed when I decided to leave New York and "see the world."

I am shaken from my daydream when Tom spots an aging lion male stalking a herd of buffalo. He is discernibly visible only through binoculars, and is breathing heavily as he walks determinedly through the herd. This lion, even to my untrained eye, can be seen as no threat to even a young buffalo. He is alone, as is customary for an aging male after being ousted by a younger, more virile male from his own pride. My first lion! His mane is magnificent, and his massive paws strike the ground in unison with my quickening heartbeat. And I think my penis moved. Not sure if that makes me gay for lions, but if it does, I can certainly live with that. They rule.

And just then, three more trucks like ours pull up. Typical. All the aloneness I had been enjoying was now drowned out by the gurgling idle of the other tour groups and most disturbingly, the thick southern accents of the couple in the truck next to ours. It seems that even in Africa, alone time will likely be fleeting, lest I pack a bag and a tent and head into the bush on my own. Call me a pussy, but that's just a little more self-evolvution than I'm prepared for. Possibly ever. Though who knows...

Lake Manyara was great as an introduction to African wildlife. Giraffes, elephants, buffalo, and all kinds of monkeys wandering around, all as curious about our truck as we are of them. Tom was an excellent guide. He knew everything by the book, no matter how pointed our questions were. He truly made the experience a lot more enjoyable, from the standpoint of someone who was not just looking to see stuff, but learn about it. Next however, after a six hour drive, was Serengeti. We camped outside Serengeti the night before, and planned to head in the next morning around 5:00 am. Like I said before, everything in Sub-Saharan Africa happens before 9:00 am. If you want to see a lion maul one of god's creations, you're going to have to get up crazy early, and you're going to have to shut up about it.

That night I, Tom, Maggie, and Ronda all stay up drinking the vodka I'd bought at the Dubai duty-free. Nothing, I've found, assists in popularity quite like the foresight to have booze out in the desert, and the willingness to share it. Tom, a Masaai educated by the tourism board (essentially the education my barber was seeking), is a pleasant man in his early 40s, with a smile as big as his face could stretch. It's clear he likes Maggie a lot too, and I'm sure in that part of the world her big boobs are seen as an ample food supply with which to raise a large brood, thusly making her more attractive still.

The next morning, we drive into the Serengeti. The Serengeti is special: It has no fences, and is a massive desert steppe, where only animals and Masaai are permitted to dwell. Additionally, inasmuch as it was the tail end of the wildebeest migration (though nothing like the Planet Earth documentary), we were treated to the symbiosis that zebras, wildebeests, and impala share. Wildebeests and zebras migrate together, eating the same types of grass, each consuming different parts of the plant. It's kind of like how white people eat the shoulder, knuckle, flank, and delicious bacon portions of a pig, and then Asians go ahead and eat the ass and elbows. Wildebeests also depend on the superior hearing and smell of zebras; watching them for signs of alarm. I tend to believe this is why Asian women pair up with Jewish white dudes so often, as with the breadth of our noses and with eyes that actually open, we must innately be seen as supreme detectors of danger. Little do Asian women know that upon detection of such danger, we are quick to toss them into the lion's mouth if only to give us a few spare moments with which to escape. Little known fact: Did you know that Hanukkah is actually a celebration of how many days a lion was kept at bay with the body of one Vietnamese child? A girl, obviously? It's true. How did a Vietnamese child end up outside a cave in the Negev, you ask? That, my friend, is the miracle of Hanukkah.

The Serengeti, being so expansive, provides one the opportunity to experience nature in a way that is as close as the layman can get to natural authenticity. Irrespective of the omnipresent whir of the overworked engine of the 1981 Jeep Terrain, the clatter of camera shutters, and the intermittent gasps of awe climbing from slackened jaws, you really feel as though you are immersed in a nature that god intended, invented. When people who have been places (having not yet truly achieved the distinction of "traveler") describe a particular sight or event as being "amazing", it is the feeling of timelessness and exception that a place like Serengeti should conjure. Instead, an iteration of the typical resort hotel and its adjacent half-kilometer of white sand beach littered with jet ski operators and polished shell salesmen is sadly what is most often being conveyed.

For one thing, human nature is comprised of a relentless search for new startling impressions. If it's not, then you're just another monkey looking for the next banana. Put simply, as we grow older, it takes more and more to impress us. And as humans, it damn well should. As a child, a simple ball bouncing was enough to captivate me for hours. Many years later, some ornate church in Eastern Europe would underwhelm me for three long minutes. What's worse, these three minutes were more of a conscious homage to the many toiling workers who risked (and often lost) their lives for its construction than it was a compelling appreciation for its pulpit or archways. Although this callous reaction to what can only be described as an extraordinary human achievement may be a result of having seen so many extraordinary things, that the world simply takes quite a bit more to impress me than it used to seems like a very real human characteristic. It's akin to the first time a caveman discovered fire. Pretty freakin' awesome, right? Seriously, fire is FUCKIN' AMAZING! But once that shock wore off (it still hasn't for me), he no doubt got down to figuring out how many other things, animals, children he could burn. Just as I'm more akin to ignoring the demographics of the Church of the Blessed Eucharist, and instead am fascinated far more by learning why a typical Ukrainian male is perfectly at peace getting drunk all day with his friends and passing out on a monument erected to celebrate one of Lviv's greatest scholars. More gripping still, I am fascinated that the typical Ukrainian female is likely to be studying at the local university all day and afterwards prancing past any and all willing onlookers wearing the world's sexiest designer knockoffs. This study in particular is ongoing. And going. And going. Oh my god.

Where was I?

One such impression occurred on my first night while camping in the Serengeti. I awoke at what must have been around 3 in the morning with a familiar drinking pang to urinate. As I stepped out of the tent into a symphony of wild coos and howls, I was staggered by the moon's brilliance, its grandeur, its divinity. Hanging low in the vast night sky of the desert, was a perfectly round spotlight draped with a halo that carved out greater than a third of the sky's intense blackness. On the ground, everything was illuminated as if under a low wattage terrarium lamp; no shadows, nothing unseen. If nightclubs were this well-lit, my friend Kris wouldn't have semiannual herpes outbreaks.

I stared at the moon for awhile, mesmerized the way I'm sure ancient tribespeople were before assigning it holy qualities. Alone with a moon this big, in a sky this big, allows one some big thoughts. Such as, an examination of one's possibilities. Ask me, if at any time before I took my first flight at 23 years old, if I'd ever have stepped foot into Africa. Ask me if I'd ever dreamed about writing a book. Ask me if I'd ever considered going anywhere further than a particular city's limits on my own, without a close companion. Ask me if I'd ever have dreamed about meeting exotic people from exotic lands, who tell exotic stories that color my own tales of adventure, triumph, and relative failures. Ask me if I thought I had control, if my life could follow a storyline written by my imagination, and not the imagination of my parents or the path traveled by countless others [college, job, promotion, promotion, marriage, children, suburbs, retirement, death]. The shadow cast by these musings stretched deep into my past, back to the inception of the life I would live and find more fulfilling than the lack of imagination I found in the lives of my parents and nearly everyone else. In that sense I suppose I too was attaching sacred meaning to the moon. Or maybe it was all the bush weed I'd been smoking.

It's interesting. To this point in the book/trip, I'd been feeling that the experiences and stories had more or less written themselves. This format, thus far being one of loosely linked anecdotes in the largely false pretense professing a theme of inner betterment and growth has to this point been aptly and rather simply achieved. At this juncture however, getting into the more densely packed sinews of a tight and underused muscle, I am finding my words more grandiose, more difficult to speak, loosen, and just plain take seriously. Examining oneself out from under the safety of humor and snark allows a bit more opportunity for criticism, and I suppose it is at this point my writing will probably adjust its focus somewhat. Though who knows, I'm about to suffer a crippling stomach virus and get robbed twice in one day, so there are plenty of good times ahead.

This ends Part 1 of my Tanzania story. Feeling like starting fresh on a Part 2.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

An Effective Cover Letter


Brian A******
New York, NY 10009

ABC Capital, LLC.
New York, NY 10017

RE: Job listing #17441G7 advertised on Careerbuilder.com


To Whom It May Concern, and Those Nearby to Whom It May Not,

I am writing to introduce myself for consideration for your assistant controller role advertised on Careerbuilder.com. As my included resume will clearly indicate, I have a stout accounting background that unequivocally qualifies me for the advertised position. However, it is likewise clear after an ongoing five month job search that I will not be getting this job in spite of my qualifications, insofar as my background is a mess of inexplicable job moves and gross half-truths. Why did I leave Position A at Firm X, you ask? Probably because it offered me the same miserable future that your firm similarly promises, and for a brief period I saw an alternative to the soul-sucking dismal existence I am sure to enjoy at ABC Capital. But the real question is: why would we bother wasting each other's time to meet one another, when instead you can go ahead and interview 21 more cardboard widgets pumped out from the Teloitte & Douche machine, each bringing nothing more to the table than the ability to mindlessly book journal entries and not send personal emails from work? That was a long sentence; although I think you'll agree that the punctuation was a thing of beauty. I digress: The answer to the above question is simple: I have an extremely high X-factor.

The X-factor is defined as follows:

X = (S^U)*(C/K) + I*T

where
X = Value to your firm.
S = # of Skills that pay bills.
U = Unexplained job moves, as depicted on resume.
C = Coolness, defined as the inverse of a typical 5 year Ernst & Young financial services auditor on a scale of 1 to douche bag.
K = # of times the candidate considered Killing themselves on all-night audits at Blackrock.
I = Intelligence as defined as the ability to communicate in everyday written discourse without the use of absurd shorthand variants of the word "you."
T = # of Times the candidate has slept with a coworker. Double this number for conquests taking place on company property.


That math was rather simple, even for an accountant. Had I been able to integrate integrals (word play) with a qwerty keyboard, it would have likely been much more fun for both of us. Interesting though, how in that last sentence I flexed my calculus muscles in such a fashion so as to simultaneously draw attention to my humility. It is precisely this encompassed attack to problem solving from which your firm would benefit should you decide to hire me at a modest premium over the obviously inflated salary figure I already provided via your online application form.

The choice is yours. You can either interview another head-down accountant who ends his sentences in prepositions because he's on an H-1B visa and experiences difficulty communicating in terms not used in financial statement footnote disclosures, or you can interview a diversely talented accountant like me who ends his sentences in prepositions ironically because of. Just think of all the exciting banter that awaits us as we mercilessly ridicule Jiang "Bruce" Chung behind his back when he leaves each day for his lunchtime piano lesson.

I recognize that the chance exists that you may be one more dirty-kneed supplicant looking up at the long hard dick of Corporate. In this case, what I suspect will happen next is you will walk into your boss' office carrying a copy of this cover letter so the two of you can share a laugh at my gracious expense. And let's face it; this cover letter, if not funny, is at least worth the walk to his office past his assistant Brenda-- the busty aspiring actress-by-night who hates your double-pleated guts by day. And when your boss does laugh as you suspected, you will think to yourself "Wow, we really connected there. Perhaps I should take this opportunity to invite him to my lame Super Bowl party." And he will once again politely decline your sycophantic attempt to ingratiate yourself into his personal life. You'll then walk away dejectedly, which is much the same feeling I will experience when my follow-up email to you in one week's time goes unreturned and I lament the time I wasted researching your lousy firm.

Don't you see how much we have in common? I feel like we really connected there. Want to get lunch today? Oh, you're busy? What about tomorrow? What about never? I miss the days when we would laugh about stuff together.

Finally, I encourage you to refer to my enclosed resume. Upon meeting me, I am confident that the value I would add to your firm will become clear, unless of course you are beholden to applicants who look as though they were raped by a Ralph Lauren Chaps discount rack. I don't even know where people buy Ralph Lauren Chaps anymore. Then again, I don't shop for clothes in stores that sell portable CD players and deck furniture. Though I am happy to pick up some Haggar slacks and an oversized Gap poplin dress shirt for the interview if it better qualifies me for the assistant controller position, thus showcasing my adaptability when faced with unfortunate circumstances.

I thank you immeasurably for your time and consideration, and very much look forward to meeting you and learning more about the assistant controller employment opportunity and how I may fit into your depressing firm during your next scheduled group suicide.

Blow me,


Brian A******

Monday, September 28, 2009

Dubai - A Lesson in Mating Misconduct


Ok, I’ve been getting a lot of heat from people lately, and deservedly so. I have a good five months yet to write on the trip I completed over a year ago. Those of you who know me well know that I’ve been busy with stand up lately, but that’s really no excuse to let the prose slip by. So… here’s my olive branch. Dubai. I apologize for its length, as it should really be three separate stories. But if you stick with it, I think the third act will pay some pleasant dividends. Enjoy:

My exit strategy from the bowels of Earth known as Cairo was to grab the cheapest flight to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania to begin my African chapter. Fortunately, this took me through Dubai, a city whose modernity was starkly evident during my flight's descent. Given the buzz surrounding Dubai, and my anxious anticipation to see it, I can't resist the urge to compare it to Las Vegas.

Though it's quite different indeed. The recipe for Dubai is as follows:

Take one whole Las Vegas. Remove strippers, gambling, fake boobs, overt hedonism. Take the soulless glitz that remains, and spread it out over 400 square miles. Stir in two cups of high-end shopping. Sprinkle in headscarves. Add two heaping quarts of self-entitled ex-pats. Stir vigorously until a culturally substantive void is evident. Bake at 900 degrees Celsius. Sweat perpetually. Consume with copious amounts of alcohol (to taste). When sober, desperately avoid suicide while awaiting departing flight.

Arriving in Dubai, my first impression was of the airport, which is by all accounts a step above all other airports I’ve ever been in. This includes notables such as Schiphol, Heathrow, Charles de Gaulle, and Narita. The shopping is very Fifth Avenue, with the people even more irritating than your average Fifth Avenue Louis handbag street strutter. In other words, pretty douchey. Apparently it is possible to be a douche and wear a headscarf, which I have to admit, took me by surprise. Immediately I was struck with the realization that the Middle East, although I was still in it, had become a much different place. Like comparing New York and Lincoln, Nebraska I suppose. Aleppo, Syria this was not. Thank fucking Allah. That place was a glory hole in the Shroud of Turin as far as I was concerned.

I wonder…. If the Shroud depicts the image of a crucified man (believed by many to be Jesus, though there’s clearly no real way of knowing), where would the glory hole be? Remember, there are more logical hole positions in Jesus than in the average human.

Enough. Even I’m disturbed that that imagery.

My first night in town I went to a nearby hotel bar known for it's weekday party scene, where I met a couple of Pakistani guys, Farhan and Nike. Nike is a stylish hairdresser type, and lord knows Pakistanis have plenty of hair. He should have been rich. He wasn't. Though he was quiet, polite, and under control. On the other hand, Farhan is a near complete disaster. The depth of his mania would prove to be staggering on a level I'd only before seen outside my neighborhood methadone clinic. Or maybe it was inside. I was so fucked up on heroin, it was hard to tell.

Farhan tells me he’s the son of a Pakistani prince, and that he ran away from Islamabad when his girlfriend broke up with him. It is at this point, after about 30 minutes of exchanged pleasantries, that he shows me the accordion of scars up and down his arms depicting his many failed attempts to gain the favor of 77 virgins. Not being one to judge, I laugh it off with a remark about how everyone knows that cutting your arms vertically is the only real way to impress a virgin. He seemed to like that.

Next he bought me a shot of Patron, while launching into a lengthy diatribe about how he plays drums in a band back home, and how he'll have to take me to see some of the good bands in town. Being an avid live music fan, I accept the shot, accept the invitation, and likewise, accept the sneaking suspicion that I may have quickly become Farhan's best friend in all of Dubai. Apparently my intense friendship with Braun in Sharm el Sheikh was not lesson enough. I was suddenly in a committed relationship. More importantly, Farhan and Nike each confess to me their undying affection for white women, and I soon realize my role has become that of a conduit between these two and the western women they covet. Farhan is buying my drinks, and with a willing benefactor, I’m all for getting these guys some fair-skinned floozies.

Unfortunately, Farhan is completely useless in this arena. His mode of operation, however formulaic and perpetually unsuccessful, is the following:

-Buy as many of the most expensive drinks available as it takes for a girl's eyes to glaze over and her mouth to fall open
-Pontificate ad nauseam about his drum playing skills while emphatically air-drumming to punctuate his awesomeness
-Show off his arm scars depicting failed attempts at attention-- I mean suicide.
-Gyrate awkwardly with his massive purple lips bouncing in unison with the baseline

As such, the first night ends rather uneventfully; with some unnerving conversations with ex-pats and about 14 rounds of shots, many with Red Bull as a key component. Because what says “forcing a good time” like Red Bull and a massive bar tab?

The next night was my most pivotal night in Dubai. This was one of life’s examples of how a seemingly insignificant action can result in a complete course redirection. While at Budda Bar with Farhan, a tall, striking white woman seemed transfixed on my sexy splendor. Or maybe it was my bleary eyed gaze back towards her and her concern that I was somehow plotting her imminent demise. Frankly, it was probably more the latter.

After about 20 minutes and another four shots of Patron, the situation was clearly turning uncomfortable. For me. Farhan was telling me for the ninety millionth time about how he misses "his girl" back in Pakistan. Given his blubbering, I no longer needed to imagine what would make a woman, even one of meager Pakistani means, to leave a man of royalty. He was a royal pussy. Real nice guy, though.

I answer the beckon from the staring woman, who turns out to be from Canada, and who just so happens to be there with her boyfriend. Although, this did not preclude her from flirting relentlessly with both Farhan and I. Frankly, part of me was wondering whether or not this chick was actually a high-priced call girl (of which there are many in Dubai). But to my surprise, she invited Farhan and I out to their condo on the Palm Jumeirah the next night. I'd already heard what a pain in the ass it was to get out on the Palm, so an invitation of this kind was Dubai's equivalent to getting invited into the Playboy Mansion, if the Playboy Mansion didn't come with a dying old man and more STDs than a biopsy of Courtney Love's cervix.

The next day, we are on our way to the Palm, after being passed at three separate security checkpoints. This, I've surmised, is meant more to keep out the toiling laborers who have built Dubai under the guise of day labor, but in reality is more a form of modern day slavery. It's akin to Reno "entertainment professionals" mining and refining the very silicon used in the fake titties hanging off each "entertainment professional" working in the Spearmint Rhino, but when the sun goes down, the Reno "entertainment professionals" are banned from the Spearmint Rhino because they're obviously not worthy. Which I guess is fair. No one likes a whore with black lung. And no, that's not racist. It's sexist.

On the way to the Palm, the city's overexpansion became even more clear. Every single building was capped with a crane, and in a glance you'd see up to 10-15 skyscrapers actively under construction. So much so that across the world, there was a shortage of cranes, because one-third of all the world's cranes were in Dubai. Keep in mind, this is a city in which its sudden boom is directly correlated not only with the discovery of oil, but with it's value spike up until a year ago. Dubai was (over)developed under the assumption that oil futures would average $100/barrel, and ever since that level has proven to be grossly inflated, everyone knows that Dubai has since turned into a bit of a ghost town, or the Williamsburg, Brooklyn waterfront. Take your pick. Either way, Dubai has the feel of a city that's no more than five years old, and one that certainly hasn't matured past its age. It carries a strong whiff of plagiarized Westernism, from the post-modernist architecture to the stuffy air of entitled self-importance. It also boasts western university outposts (RIT, American Univ, Boston Dental, Cass Business School, Manchester Univ), many western restauranteurs have opened outposts there, and even more westerners live there as employees of the financial and service sector, inasmuch as 75% of UAE are not native to the Emirates. It's like Chinatown for white people, without the fish stink.

Once out on the Palm, Farhan and I are led into a gorgeous three story condominium, replete with art-deco furnishings and Indian art that looked far too expensive to be carrying the weight of overturned wine bottles and overstuffed ashtrays. It reminded me of walking into my rich friend's parents' house the morning after a high school kegger. Only better because I was in Dubai and not Kinnelon, NJ. And better still because I've had sex before, and in Kinnelon I couldn't lay claim to claiming a lay at all.

Each frond of the Palm Jumeirah is a manmade beach peninsula, so that every condo on the Palm enjoys beach front property, even if your neighbor is only a 50 meter swim to the next frond. Which makes for a pretty slow getaway for a ding-dong-dash. This is the project completed before the infamous World project (a collection of islands meant to resemble the Earth) got underway. The Emirates, sparing no expense, moved immense amounts of sand to create the Palm and the World. Sadly, I was unable to find any of the peyote the emirates themselves were clearly reliant upon to visualize such insanity.

Because of the world's recent emigration to Dubai, the most common question asked by the ex-pats is "how long have you been here?" To which my answer of "this is my third day" was often met with astonishment. People apparently had been trying to get out and see the Palm for over 6 months (since it's completion at that time), and my supremacy in the field of networking has never before or since been so unquestioned.

Once arrived, the party was rife with people of varying professional services backgrounds, be it advertising, financial, or escort services. To be sure, some women at the party were no doubt experts in the field of arm candy. And everyone at the party were experts in the field of hard partying. My kind of crowd.

Julie, the host who'd invited us, seemed to take a keen interest in Farhan and me. Which, in light of Farhan's penchant for ladies of the Caucasian influence, made his big purple lips pucker eagerly to slobber pretty much anywhere on her body, whether she wanted them there or not. Interestingly, this air of desperation only seemed to endear Farhan to Julie even moreso, and Farhan took the early lead in the Julie sweepstakes, albeit a distant second place to her rich, live-in boyfriend Nisham. Farhan likes 'em white, Julie likes 'em brown... I get it.

The party lasted well into the early morning hours, with wine and weed acting as the predominant currency. Being a poor leader and a fabulous follower, I spent a great deal of time drinking and smoking out in the backyard on the beach with Paul, Julie's neighbor from Essex who'd moved next door two months earlier. He had recently gotten engaged, and was somewhat reticently anticipating his fiancee's arrival to live with him the following week. The reason for his petulance was simple: he was having too much fun without her. This would be even further evidenced in the days to come. The word "come" here is intentionally being used duplicitously.

Also at the party was a tall, stunning personal assistant from Montreal named Nicole. Seeing Julie transfixed on Farhan's purple people eaters, I spent a good deal of time at the party drinking champagne and smoking joints with Nicole. She was reciprocating in kind, and Farhan and I could be seen exchanging glances across the crowded living room as if to say "that's my nigga."

Julie's boyfriend was floating around the party flirting heavily with anyone who would give him enough time to fill their wine glass. Something about this couple felt a bit askew, while at the same time refreshingly progressive. At the time, it was no wonder they loved each other so much, insofar as their relationship was clearly devoid of any hint of jealousy's parasitism. And who wouldn't love someone who was so willing to watch you get a wet pinky with the girl who served you lychee martinis at brunch?

The next day, I escaped to the Mall of Emirates to glance underwhelmingly at the world's largest indoor ski slope. More than just another example of man's inability to impress in comparison with nature, the indoor ski slope just strikes anyone who's ever seen an actual mountain as being utter masturbation. For a Bedouin however, it's probably more akin to an average passportless Midwesterner taking awestruck pictures in front of the "Eiffel Tower" at Paris Paris in Las Vegas. In other words; suck it. Get out and see some real shit.

Later, in the record store, I am besieged with a thousand advertisements for DJ Tiesto's Valentine's Day concert at the Madinat Arena. Without hesitating, I text Farhan my plans to stay an additional twelve days, then dial Emirates Air to change my flight from a February 4th departure the next day to a February 16th departure (leaving myself an extra day to recover from what is sure to be an epic party). With Farhan's help through a friend of his in the booking department, I change my flight free of charge. Now my only problem is finding another suitable hotel for under $200/night. In Dubai, that's like finding a finding a Manhattan apartment for $600/month whose walls aren't covered in DNA.

My hotel at the time was a spacious apartment-style flat with a balcony and plenty of room for Farhan to crash as he had been the past two nights, as his apartment was in a part of town much further from what is considered desirable. My next two hotels however, would prove to be progressive examples of how ones accomodations can degenerate to crack-den status without proper planning.

The first was in the same area of town that Farhan lives in, generally nothing more than a financial center with nothing worth doing nearby, and that includes girlie bars. I'll explain the girlie bars shortly. My hotel room was fine, and Farhan was excited because apparently the house band at my new hotel was amazing. Falling victim to my "always say yes" mantra, I agreed to check this band out. They had some awful name like "Monkeythrust" or "Blue Whale Cocks" or something, and they were nothing more than your average college-quality cover band. To be honest, I've seen better bands at Karaoke parlors in Thailand. Farhan however, was so enamored with the drummer, that he bought her some expensive set of drumsticks, and I made a crack about how he's "moving too fast". I don't think people in other parts of the world understand that a proper courtship should involve a period of letting the other person know definitively that you don't give a fuck about them.

From this hotel, I moved even further down the scale into probably the closest thing to a ghetto any white person in Dubai can find: the Claridge, which was a small step above a homeless shelter, in an area of town most likely to have a homeless shelter. It still ran me $140/night. There are no cabs to speak of anywhere nearby, and more often than not, I had to walk 30 minutes to a highway and wait another 15 before an available cab drove by. Is that what it's like in the Bronx? See? Even in Dubai, I was considering ways to identify with Black America. Though in doing so, I wanted to kill myself. All I wanted was a goddamn taxi queue near my hotel. Would have settled for some fried chicken though.

Let me get back to the girlie bars. Our first few nights out, Farhan had insisted on paying for everything. Being a prince, he claimed to have piles of money. Later in the week, I learned differently. Not only was he drawing off scant resources, he was doing so to impress me (of all people). In doing so, he'd take us to these "girlie" bars, which when suggested in such context, certainly sounds like a time worth having. Once inside however, you learn quickly how the influence of Islam can affect a good time. These bars consist of nothing more than a fully dressed (typically Filipino) girl dancing on a stage as any normal girl would. Mind you, not as any normal stripper would, but any girl would. On our third visit (along with Nike) to one of these "girlie" bars, for two hours, the following cycle repeated itself roughly 6 times:

One round of bulldogs (a rum/vodka/red bull drink that only served to heighten Farhan's mania)
Call forward one of the girlies
Tip her with anywhere from 6-10 necklaces (which account for a minimum tip apiece)
Farhan waxes wistful about his girl back in Pakistan
I tell Farhan to look at the stage, and not in his heart
Another round of bulldogs

Finally the bill arrives, while Farhan is in the bathroom. Since he'd been so generous to this point, I elect to pick up the bill. Only after running my credit card do I look at the tally, pre-tip: $1,150US. WHAT THE FUCK!? I hadn't even seen a boob yet. I later told Farhan that "girlie" bars were no longer an acceptable pregame activity, barring a dramatic reduction in either cost or clothing.

Dubai is rife with prostitutes. If you're touring the town using only a guidebook, you're likely to seek out a place that Lonely Planet would describe as a place with a "fun, easy-going vibe, with moderately priced cocktails your wallet will enjoy." If Lonely Planet knew a damn thing, what they'd instead say is "fun, easy women, at moderate prices your cock will enjoy." This is why the more I traveled, the more I realized I didn't need (or want) a guidebook for anything. The people who write those things are retarded. Though if they're hiring... hook me up! I need a job, and I'm only mildly retarded.

With the days counting down to Tiesto, Farhan and I went on a desert safari, which consisted of driving like maniacs on the dunes in Toyota Land Cruisers, followed by an uber-touristy belly dance. We also rented jet skis and risked our lives playing chicken on the Persian Gulf, which was decidedly more fun. By now, I've become keenly aware of my need to endanger myself in order to be thoroughly entertained. It's a minor miracle I've never broken a bone [knocks on wood], although it's a major miracle I've never killed myself.

My days leading up to Tiesto were spent most commonly wandering through any one of the nearby malls (they are literally everywhere in Dubai, as shopping is a full time job there) to either watch a movie, or just gaze into the windows with the most shiny things. Swarovski is especially good for that. During one such day, I was again in the Mall of Emirates, when Julie calls me and asks why I wasn't at Brunch. Apparently I had a voicemail with an invite. And apparently now many of the people I'd met at their party were completely hammered at 5:00 in the afternoon on a Thursday. She invites me to their house for the "after party" and to be there by 7:00. I spring into action.

At the time of this conversation, I was wandering around in an old t-shirt, shorts, and running shoes. Clearly, I was going to need an overhaul (if not a shower). Additionally, my crappy hotel was at least a $40 cab ride away, and with the Palm being in the opposite direction, I was facing at least $100 in taxis to get home, change clothes, and head to Julie's. Instead, I make the much simpler decision to to buy all new clothes. New shoes, jeans, and shirt to the tune of $160 (you can get some good gear in Dubai at affordable prices; there are no import tariffs). Then I went into the bathroom, changed, took a faux-shower with liquid hand soap and paper towels provided by the bathroom attendant, and tossed my old clothes in a bag and left them on the sink for anyone who wanted shorts and sneakers that had been to the Valley of the Kings. Ramses III must have rubbed off on them somehow. Wait, was that another fertility joke? ZING!

Looking the part of a guy who looks like he should have retail tags hanging from his sleeve, I arrive at the condo to find about nine people all completely shitfaced. Farhan is already there. I have some catching up to do.

I retreat to the back patio to smoke a joint and swill some wine, and Farhan joins me. Moments later, he is sobbing to me about his girl back home again, and as is customary when my brain is seeking an escape from a conversation that can involve anything, preferably lethal substances, my eyes rolled and a deliberate wandering gaze commenced.

However, on this occasion, I was treated to the most delightful segue in the history of the ending of bad conversations. A glance inside to the living room delivered the sight of Julie sitting between her boyfriend Nisham and her neighbor Paul, spread-eagled, hands on multiple cocks, with multiple hands and mouths aggressively exploring her erogenous zones. It took me a minute to process; meanwhile Farhan could not stop crying. I'm unsure how many people since Marie Antoinette have been gifted with such a sight, but my emotions evolved from shock, to delight, to fear, to glee, back to fear, and finally confused arousal. Then I told Farhan to shut the fuck up.

I felt like Scooby Doo (watch his expressions). They are all relatable here.

Farhan refused to stop sobbing about his woman until I literally slapped his face and spun him around to look at the sexual splendor taking place in the next room. Jaws flagging wide open, we started dancing and laughing like two kids who'd just come out of a peep show. Though, we pretty much are kids, and we were pretty much watching a peep show. So yea; so much for that analogy.

At some point, I knew I needed more booze. The three oversexed animals on the couch didn't seem like they'd care if I made a move to the wine fridge, and so on my way through the living room, I toasted them, they all smiled, and continued doing what they were doing. God bless them.

Minutes later, Paul was in the kitchen with me, smiling ear to ear, as he hurriedly gathered three dirty wine glasses and a bottle of red. Our conversation went as follows:

me: Dude, mazel tov!
Paul: Mate, today is crazy.
me: I feel like I missed a full-blown orgy by about three hours.
Paul: Well, you certainly missed on getting blown.
me: What the fuck are you doing down here talking to me, get upstairs and get me a story to tell.
Paul: Mate, I just had it off with Nicole a couple hours ago. I thought that was a story.
me: I'm not leaving Dubai. Or this condo.
Paul: See you in an hour.
me: Hey, if you need a hand in there, knock twice on the wall.
Paul: See you in thirty.
me: [to self] Nice guy.

I learned something that day. I learned that I know my place when an orgy is going down. And that is to ensure all involved parties don't have it fucked up by some lovesick Paki. I took the bullet for the next hour or so while Farhan manically oscillated between musings of how his girl would never do the kinds of nefarious things Julie was now doing, although when pressed, I convinced him that part of him really wished she would.

The rest of the night consisted of a high-speed drunken car race to the club in the back of Nisham's convertible M5, and a VIP table scene with many bottles of Dom on hand, courtesy of Nisham. Nothing says "I'm celebrating a threesome" like Dom. I drank scotch. I was celebrating my first ride in an M5. Not the same.

According to Julie, she'd never done anything like that before. For my money though, she sure seemed to know her way around multiple inputs at a level a bit above that of a novice. Paul confided in me that Nisham wouldn't let him have sex with Julie, but was more than fine with letting him take the head while Nisham took the tail. I told Paul that isofar as he hadn't bathed between acts of coitus, it was probably a fair limitation. Then Paul started drinking scotch with me to celebrate my ride in the M5. Nice guy.

Our conversation inevitably turned to the eventual arrival of Paul's fiancee. He smiled and laughed that had he known days like the one he'd just had could take place in Dubai, he would have been none too swift to drop a noose on anyone's ringfinger. When I reminded him that none of these sordid events had taken place before I showed up, he confided to me that he truly thought I had absolutely nothing to do with any of it. I think part of me fell for Paul as well.

Dubai, however, was a similarly extraneous variable. It really doesn't bring a lot to the table in terms of what makes a city great. Without these people out on the Palm and to a lesser extent Farhan, it's safe to say that my time in Dubai would have been best served to remain at three days. Frankly, as I mentioned before, even the indoor ski slope that everyone talks about is wholly unimpressive. Oh, you have a three story hill of snow indoors? That's awesome? Wrong. It's not. You suck.

Frankly, the only thing Dubai has is a canal walk that can very much be missed, some pretty incredible shopping, and an entitled air carried by the ex-pats who arrived in Dubai to make their money and live lavishly. The restaurants boast some impressive names, though I would challenge anyone who is of the belief that Gordon Ramsay is really taking an active role in his outpost in Dubai. I think Jenna Jameson cares more about where her videos are being pirated (my apartment) than Gordon Ramsay does about what a bedouin thinks of his roasted Barbary duck breast. Mmmm... breasts.

After several weeks of waking up at 3pm, window-shopping for things I couldn't afford, and watching movies, it was finally time for the Tiesto concert at Madinat Arena. Julie and Nisham were throwing a party (again) that night, and though I desperately did NOT want Farhan to join me at Tiesto, he somehow managed to put himself on the event staff, and wound up working the concert. Luckily, he was typically too busy showing off his security badge to the other 8,000 partyers to bother too much with me.

Several people from Julie's party were going, and I was going with Nicole. Nicole is one of those women who is so stunning that she looks at a line of 25 people waiting to buy drink tickets and says "I'll be back in a minute," and within two minutes has a fistful of drink tickets. I didn't even know you could blow a guy that fast. She was like a magician, only better because instead of hidden magnets, she has boobs.

Madinat did everything they could to ruin this show. First, there was a narrow shoot to funnel through for ticket-takers. Farhan helped us there. Second, was the long line to show ID to get a wristband for drinks. Then there was a mile-long line to buy drink tickets, which Nicole breezed through. Finally, there was an angry sea of expectant drinkers teeming with brutal sobriety waiting to buy drinks from the six bartenders staffed to serve 8,000 fans of fucking trance music?! This was already a shitstorm, and although I was considerably more drunk than most everyone else there, and blessed with a blow-off-any-semblance-of-a-queue card in Nicole, I was still irritated.

Nicole was obsessed with making sure she connected with everyone she knew who was at the venue. We spent the first 30 minutes of Tiesto's set running around trying to find some guy who it turns out Nicole used to date, but upon meeting him, was an obvious douche. I have learned something over the years though... Most girls have a soft spot for douches. Only the coolest and most desirable of all girls will turn their nose up at any and all douches. Of course, if you're someone who can't be with a girl who has ever been with a douche (like I am), this pares down the population of desirables to a scant number of hippies, hipsters, and victims of date rape.

Later on, Nicole had to go to the bathroom again, for the 30th time to pump whatever stimulant she was on up into her face. Either that, or she ate some bad shrimp. Hard to say really, as I was on the verge of utter obliteration by this time. On this occasion, Tiesto was whipping the whole place into a frenzied orgy of jumping fits and screams. I have a very real weakness for a frenzied live music orgy. As the throbbing and whooting increased, I slowly gravitated back to the dance floor, thinking Nicole and I would reconnect in the middle of the thumping bass bukkake that had become Madinat Arena.

That never happened. My texts to her went unreturned for the rest of the night. Which, to be honest, was somewhat of a relief. I was able to enjoy the rest of the show in my own unencumbered, booze-fueled bliss while Tiesto tore the motherfucking house down.

The following day was my last full day in Dubai. I spent it hanging out with Farhan and some of his dopey friends. In a cyclical twist, we were all back at Budda Bar, the same bar in which Farhan and I met Julie and Nisham. After the threesome, those two opted to take a break from partying for awhile, and they sent me their regards. Truth is, I think they were both a little ashamed of it all. Fun while it lasted, but I think they were back to figuring out why the hell they were together in the first place, if all either of them wanted to do was take other people's clothes off. Say what you will about open relationships, but it is my contention that if there isn't any hint of jealousy on both sides of a relationship, it's probably more one of convenience than one of undying devotion. Or so says the guy whose only serious girlfriend boned her ex-boyfriend two months into their near two-year relationship. So, what do I know?

At Budda Bar, a couple ladies from California and I began talking, which evidently was Farhan and his friends' cue to descend on the scene and all but mouth-rape the very girls I was trying to mouth-lovemake to. This method of predatory cock-blocking seems it would be the most successful in a tent in Karachi, where the girls inside know their choices are either mouth loving one of the men in the tent, or a stoning against the wall outside the tent. Either way, you need a tent.

Predictably, the girls flaked off, and I had reached my breaking point with Farhan. It was our last night together, and I just couldn't take another episode of him showing off his scarred-up arms and stories about what an amazing drummer he's not. I said my good-bye and mercifully got into a cab on the way home. With a 30 minute ride to my hotel ahead of me, my mind wandered back to Nicole. I was a bit irritated that she blew me off, and that I'd let her get away with it so easily. Was I happier to have seen Tiesto on my own? Definitely. Though was I happy at all that she had gotten the last word? Not so much. I chose this time as my opportunity to even the score.

The following are our texts back and forth on my last night in Dubai, at approximately 2:30 in the morning:

me: Let's bone. Where you at?
Nicole: Fuck you.
me: I love your spirit. Does this mean you're at home? I can be there in 20.
Nicole: Seriously, fuck off.
me: For someone who ditched me last night, you sure seem to be misdirecting your anger. It is my contention this will make you a better lay. What say you?
Nicole: I looked around for you for half an hour and went home. Was too drunk. I thought you ditched me.
me: I texted you like 5 times. Let's take our clothes off and bury the hatchet.
me: And by hatchet I mean my cock.
Nicole. When do you leave?
me: Tomorrow
Nicole: Safe flight
me: There's still time for you to have my baby.
Nicole: Look me up if you're back in Dubai ever
me: I will. Next time we hang out I plan to fuck you and never call you again.
Nicole: Asshole
me: I was planning to use your vagina.
Nicole: Gross
me: It doesn't have to be.
Nicole: See you when I see you
me: Tell Paul I'll miss him.
Nicole: Haha. He likes you too. I will.
me: Him I'll miss. You, not so much. Till next time...
Nicole: He'll miss you too. I'll look you up on Facebook.
me: I will reject you. Going to bed now.
Nicole: G'night. Safe flight.
me: Good chat.

Of course, with my luck, my phone with all my Dubai contacts was stolen in Dar es Salaam and I've lost touch with everyone I'd met and spent time with there. This is particularly tragic because Paul is apparently in NY all the time, and he's the one person in particular that I really wished to stay in touch with. Either way though, my opinion of Dubai is that if you ever plan on going there, and you don't know Julie, Nisham, or Paul, you're better off not going at all. It's a fun city, but not one in which you can't have the same amount, if not more fun elsewhere, in a city that feels genuine and real. Dubai had an overwhelming falseness to it. I don't plan to ever go back. Besides, it just can't be better the next time than it was the first time. It's better to preserve that memory. And by "that memory" I mean the memory of Julie with her hands full of cock.

Next story will be of Tanzania. I am committed to completing the stories from my trip. For those of you that care, stay tuned.